Wednesday, January 27, 2010
Andoh morphs with Bittman and Vongrichten
Do you ever have a recipe that niggles at your pea brain whispering “make me”, “eat me”; “make me” “eat me”? You see dear readers where I’m going.
I’ve been delving into Japanese cuisine this month stretching my Asian techniques and adding different flavor profiles to my palate. Washoku by Elizabeth Andoh has been my culinary backbone on this trip. On first perusal the book looks too good to cook from. Large, glossy paper, beautiful pictures, a coffee table gal. Once cracked open Elizabeth brings me into her kitchen and we cook.
Oyako Domburi, Chicken Omelet over Rice grabbed me. It certainly wasn’t the initial English translation which lacked enticement but the real translation of Parent and Child that hooked me. The parent, being pieces of chicken, and the child being scrambled eggs are cooked together and served over hot rice. Parent & Egg how… Japanese!
I found myself watching a quick video of Mark Bittman making a riff on Jean-Georges Ginger Fried Rice (Video at www.nytimes.com dining/wine then the video window 1.27.2010). I felt the continental plates collide when I thought about the two simple dishes together.
That night I gathered the simple ingredients and started. The hardest part was cutting the fresh ginger into minuscule cubes other than that it was a Rheine de Saba.
Results? Wow! Comfort meets unctuous oink! I couldn’t keep from moaning with delight on each bite. I kept looking over at NSSP to see if it was as good for him as it was for me.
True to form we used Japanese chopsticks next time I’ll use a shovel.
4lg Eggs, 2 broken
1C Chicken Broth
2T Soy Sauce
1T Saké (or Sherry)
1sm Onion (or ½ medium) Medium Diced
2 Boneless Skinless Chicken Thighs (1/2# Meat)
2T Finely Diced Ginger
2T Finely Chopped Ginger
1T Sesame Oil
3T Corn Oil (it will be divided)
3C Cooked White Rice
1 Scallion Sliced on the Diagonal for Garnish
Break 2 eggs in a bowl. Break the yolk and stir briefly. Keep streaky.
In another bowl mix the broth, soy sauce, saké, & sugar. Stir to combine.
Cut up the chicken into small pieces. Remove any fat, silver skin or tough pieces. Set aside.
Slice the scallion, set aside.
Finely dice garlic and ginger. Put 1T corn oil and 1T sesame oil in a small pan. Once hot add ginger and garlic. Cook until golden brown. Strain, saving the oil, and place the cubes on a paper towel to dry and crisp. They cook quickly! Give them all of your attention!
Chop onion and put in a large pan or wok with 2T corn oil. Cook on medium heat until the onions are soft. Raise the heat to high and crumble the rice over the onions and fry. Add the left over oil from the garlic and ginger. Stir fry. The onions will turn toasty brown. The rice will dry out and become a little crispy.
Heat the broth in a medium sized pan. When small bubbles form around the edge, add the chicken and poach until firm.
Strain out the chicken and put it in a bowl, pour the broth back in the pan and reduce for about a minute until it is reduced by a generous ½.
Add the stirred eggs and swirl them in the pan to cook when almost done break the other 2 eggs into the pan and put a lid on to poach. Add the cooked chicken to re-heat.
To serve, put the rice in individual bowls or on one big platter, gently scoop out the poached eggs placing them on top. Scatter the chicken and pour the sauce.
Garnish w/ the toasted garlic,ginger and scallions.
Serve with fruit.